I am looking for a place to attach the water shock absorber. I have a couple of ideas now. I can connect the shock absorber right at the high pressure nozzle of the pump. It would give me an opportunity to connect a pressure gauge. That would force me to replace or modify the high pressure tube, which, to my surprise, is made out of heavy plastic. The plastic holds 15 bar pressure. Impressive! Another possibility is to attach it to the input of the OPV valve. It is a less attractive option because of the lack of space around that area.

The second option is an Allen screw that looks like a screw on the E61 head. It might be there for the same reason too. If it it the case, then I should be able to use it either for a water temperature gauge mod, or use it for the pressure gauge and shock absorber.

I also disassembled the shower head and discovered that it is a bit different. I think it is a simpler design than on the Silvia.It might be less efficient as well. I have not way test that. I do not have a SIlvia.

I am posting a few pictures of the Audrey head here.

Three-way Solenoid Valve

Three-way Solenoid Valve Label

Assembled Shower Head

The difference between the Silvia and Audrey is visible on the following picture. On the Silvia, the shower head has a removable disk below the shower screen. On the Audrey, the disk is not removable. The small black dot on the right of the deep part of the head is the water orifice.

Shower Head with the Screen Removed

Finally, a little bonus for phone junkies like me. I used the Audrey water container as a light modifier for taking the pictures above. I am using a Nikon SB 28 with a PocketWizard Plus II, You can see the flash at the top of the picture and the Wizard in the left bottom corner.

Audrey Light Modifier for Off-Camera Flash

The pictures are self-explanatory perhaps. If you would like a step-by-step DYI instruction, please let me know on this blog on or my twitter feed @veeveed.

View from inside the car

View from the outside

Close-up view

Bayonet detached

Mounting under the suction membrane

Side view

Simple, eh?

I tried this flag myself. It gives interesting light, but, as any other light source, it needs some getting used to. Here is a sample of a flash bounced of the celling with a foam thingy attached.

Example of light produced by the Foam Thingy

Black flag

The flash head was pointing up bouncing light off the celling. The flag was about 2 inch long fastened to the bottom of the flash head. The celling was low (about 9 feet) and the subject is very close (about four feet). As you can see that the majority of light on the face is  ambient room light. There is some directional flash light coming from the top.

Here is another way how it could be done, but if the wall is not completely white, white balance would be very tricky

Source - http://www.nwprophoto.com/tempint/uf.jpg

It is like a large beauty light. There are two drawbacks to this setup IMHO. Fist, it must be loosing a lot of light in reflections between the two umbrellas. Second, as any beauty light it would have a sweet spot where light would look just great and ugly anywhere else.

It It might be interesting to see how it would work with a shoot-through small umbrella. The light pattern would be exactly opposite to a Westcott brolly that has transparent plastic in the senter and white diffuser around it. It creates a hot spot of direct light in the middle surrounded by a soft hallo. This setup would make diffused light spot in the center surrounded by a hot ring of light.  As I picture it in my head, it must be rather ugly, but it is interesting to try anyway.

Front

I wanted to make a few pictures bouncing light off the celling. But, alas, the celling was 15 feet high and not white! The flash did not do a good job filling all that space with enough light and on top of that the bounced light had wired color cast to it!  I was hard pressed to come up with a solution. Somehow it dawned on me that in the car I had a tube of Wet Ones antibacterial wipe and the size of the tube is very close to the size of the flash head on the SB-26. I took off the lid and plastic wrapping with printed stuff on it, mounted the tube on the flash head, and voila – I have a bare bulb strobe modifier! It is about 10 inches long and produces light similar to a bare bulb flush head.

Later on I added a couple of adhesive aluminum foil strips on the internal side of the modifier.

Inside

Coconut Monkey

This picture shows you the modifier mounted on a SB-28 head. It can also mount on Nikon SB-800 and Nikon SB-900 strobes. I also used it on a Canon 580 EX.

WetOnes-on-SB28

Another source of the canisters – Dollarama Auto Wipes. The wipes are OK, but the canister is what the doctor ordered!

Auto Wipes

Assembled ringlight

Front

I mostly do photography. Sometimes I shoot video. For my photography I use off-camera flash. Video needs a different approach. So, decided to make  a small ring light for shooting indoors What I end up with is not exactly small. It started with an innocent decision to make an octagon from  30 inch segments of 2x4s. When I was done with it, the ring was over 6 feet in diameter. It would now even feet in the box of my Ford F150 truck if I wanted to move it. So, I decided to make it foldable.

It turns out, it is actually very good to have a ring light that big.  It can flood a large area with soft almost shadowless light. The area is big enough to fit tree standing people. It folds into two quarter-circle segment. It is much more manageable storage and moving-wise.

This is what it does:

Ringlight in action

Tight crop

As you see, the ring produces even, soft light across large area of the shooting stage. The shadows open and gentle, highlights are even and have  nice fall-off. This is pretty good for glamor shots, don’t you think? To find out how you can build a light like this, read on!

Preparation

First, get enough wood.  You need tree 2x4x8 for the ring plus three for the stand. All together 6 pieces. Set you chop saw (mitre saw)  to 22.5 degree angle. My saw happened to have a notch and a mark for this angle.  Pay attention to cut 30 ” pieces so that the cuts on both sides are going in the opposite directions.  It would give you eight pieces looking like this.

Segment Shape

Segment Shape

Lay all pieces on the ground in a large circle. Make sure you have enough room! Now, you are ready to make joints. You will be making three types of joints – solid, folding and loose. Solid joints will be at the intermediate directions of the circle. Folding joints in the North and South (top and bottom). Loose joints at the East and West (left and right).  Choose location for these joints and start fastening them.

Solid Joints

Find  some scrap plywood or anything else of that kind. If you want to be fancy, you can use metal wood joiners. I went with the plywood. Cut four 2×5″ pieces of plywood and lay them over the  joint. Fasten the plywood to the segments using 6-8 screws. 1 1/4″ screws work very well here. If you do not want a ring that comes apart for easy storage, just repeat the same with the remaining joints and skip to the Stand section.

Solid Joint (view from the back)

Back

Folding Joints

Now you are ready to create folding sections. For that  you will need two regular 2″ hinges. Make sure to align the pieces well and center hinge over the line where two pieces of wood meet. If you do not do that right, the fold would be skewed. I played with mine for a bit and got it almost right.

Folding Joint (Back)

Back

Folding Joint (Front)

Front

Now, fasten the hinges hinges on the back of the ring. Three  screws on each side will provide some rigidity to the structure, but it will still be a bit wobbly. I reinforced the joins with a screw-in tie that I attached on the inner side. When the ring is folded, the tie is removed. When the ring is assembled, the tie is fastened strongly and it adds rigidity to the joint.

Loose Joints

These onces are the easiest! They do not need to be joined at all. Just install the screw-in ties on the inner side of the ring as shown on this picture.

Front

Front

The joint  tied together when the ring is assembled. Removing the tie makes the ring to come apart.

Stands

To make the ring stand upright I made two “T”s out of 2x4s of appropriate length. I did not really measure them. I just made sure that when they are installed, the ringlight is about 2″ above the floor level. You can install coasters on the stands, or just leave them as they are.

The stands are fastened to the ring with four yokes that are used for building fences.  The yokes are made to exact size of 2×4 and sit on them tight. The trick here is to make the 2x4s move inside of the yokes.  To do that I just put a few washers under the bottom of the yoke to raise it higher leaving some room for the 2×4 to move. The yokes are attached to the ring on the back. Make sure you align them so that they are sitting on the equal distance from the loose joints on the both sides.

Top

Top

Bottom

Bottom

Wiring

Wiring for the lights depends on the type of bulb socket you get. I found an assembly that looks like this.

Bulb Assembly

Do whatever it makes sense for you, just make sure you know what you are doing.

YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN!

IT IS DANGEROUS AND YOU RISK TO BE ELECTROCUTED OR START A FIRE IF YOU DO THAT WRONG.

You might ask an electrician or a friend with the right skills to do that for you.

Assembling the Ringlight

Disassembled

Disassembled

Bottom Section On

Bottom Section On

Fully Assembled

Assembled ringlight